Keep in mind two things:
1). Inside corners might be difficult to properly sand, though this issue can be solved by using a square sanding block (basically a square scrap piece of wood wrapped in sandpaper).
2). Edges can be very delicate; when softening outside corners and edges, avoid over sanding and creating a curved edge, especially if that edge is supposed to sit flush with another surface, such as the floor.
Then comes the stain. The magic rule (at least for me) of staining is: if it can get stained, it will. This includes your clothes, your shoes, the floor, anything supporting the piece, as well as any tools you have lying around. Be sure to remove things you want to keep clean well before you even open up the can of stain. If something does stained, you may attempt at your own risk to clean it using mineral spirits, though these can be highly flammable.
The manufacturer's directions on the can of stain are usually very clear and easy to understand, though the basic principles remain the same:- Apply stain
- Wait for it to sink into the wood and partially dry
- Wipe off excess stain
- Repeat
The number of coats reflect the desired darkness of the final stain. I wanted my bookcase to match another fairly dark set of shelves, so I used 2-3 coats. The final product has a bit of a shine to it while drying out:
 |
| All sanded and stained; only waiting on the books! |
And the final product:
With all those books loaded on, the case is quite sturdy and stable. It leans back slightly to allow the wall to provide additional support, so I placed felt furniture pads along the top edge.
ya, this is extremely helpful for woodworking beginners like me. Very innovative, easy to follow. You can see some interesting projects at my woodworkingbuddy blog too.
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